In my first year in Hokkaido, my husband organised a Hokkaido road trip with his friend’s kid in the winter. He made a comfortable Hokkaido 7 days itinerary in the winter that we all enjoyed throughout the whole journey.
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Our 7 Days Itinerary in Winter Hokkaido
This time my friend Dan flew to Tokyo with his daughter, and we caught up there. We went from Tokyo to Hokkaido together and had a fantastic road trip in Hokkaido, including ski at Niseko. In the end, they flew back to Los Angeles, U.S., and we back home by train.
There is public transportation to travel around Hokkaido. The reason we decided to make a 7 days road trip is flexibility. Especially with Dan’s little one, the journey of this Hokkaido 7 days itinerary winter is its flexibility. Therefore, we can adjust to suit our feeling slightly while travelling.
Hokkaido Winter 7 Days Itinerary: Prepare
At that moment, we had just moved to Hokkaido from Australia. Since the seasons are opposite between the two hemispheres, I still struggle with the snowy weather, and it’s summer for Australia. Therefore, I was particularly interested in preparing some clothes for the snow season.
How Cold is Hokkaido in Winter?
It depends on the area in Hokkaido you will visit, and the temperature will be different from region to region. General speaking, the average temperature is around 2°C to -6°C.
Hokkaido Weather and Temperature>>
What to Wear in Winter Hokkaido
You got to wear clothes wisely in Hokkaido. It’s not wise to wear thick clothes in Hokkaido winter in my state of experience. The outdoor temperature may freeze, but you will get toasty warm indoor. Here are some tips for wearing in Hokkaido comfortably, not too cold or toast.
Clothes to Wear in Hokkaido Winter>>
Packing Tips
It wasn’t my first time travelling with kids. My husband and I love kids so much. So we always accompanied friends’ kids or my niece and nephew on trips. (We’re child-king, lol) The very first time experience of travelling with kids was horrible. We learned by our mistake and shared with you our printable packing list for a ski trip with kids.
Ultimate Family Ski Trip Packing List>>
International Driver’s License
As we decide to road trip, we will need to rent a car and prepare our driver licenses.
To drive in Japan, you must hold either:
a valid Japanese licence; or
a valid International Driver’s Permit and a current Australian state driver’s licence.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government
My husband and I have Japanese driver’s licenses.
Dan could not drive in Japan with his U.S. drivers license, and he needed to get International Driving Permits (IDPs). It’s pretty easy.
- Fill out an IDP Form: the U.S>>; Australia>>
- Original passport pictures*2
- Your driver’s license
- Pay a USD 20 permit fee; or AU $42 (plus postage) in Australia, and you’re ready to go!
Rent Car
Our ute in Hokkaido hasn’t got enough seats for three adults and one kid.
We rented a car–prius4 from Tabirai Car Rental. It compared prices from different providers, and we found the best budget price shortly. We spent ¥39000 (About USD 353, AUD 487) in total for seven days with a kid car seat, pick-up at Hakodate Airport, and drop-off at New Chitose Airport. Perfect for our Hokkaido 7 days itinerary winter.
Tips!
We found out it’s cheaper if you rent the car from Tabirai Japanese website. Likewise, renting vehicles from the Tabirai English website will be more expensive. My husband is Japanese, so he did the work for us. However, if you can’t understand Japanese, friends who know Japanese or Google Translate can help. Otherwise, you can just rent from their English website with a bit higher fee.
Moreover!
- Snow Driving Tips>>
Winter Vibe Music List
I personal high recommend you prepare a good music list for this Hokkaido 7 days itinerary winter.
In Australia, I controlled speed at 100 km/hr on the highway. In Japan, speed is limited to 60 km/hr on the highway, sometimes 40 or 30 km/hr.
The distance between city to city, town to town are not far at all, and however, the speed limit will make it like forever. Therefore, you won’t regret preparing a music list for road trips in Hokkaido.
Road Trip with Kids
When it comes to road trips with kids, it is not just hopping into the car, driving for hours, arrive a destination. Kids won’t sleep in the car and awake when they come spot. There are many aspects of road trips that are much easier when we get to prepare.
Here are our tips and hacks to road trip with kids>>
Day 1: From Tokyo to Hakodate
We caught up with Dan and his little daughter, Connie, at Narita Airport. These iconic Hokkaido limited snacks made Dan and Connie can’t wait to see snow. During the two hour waiting period, we stay at the kid’s playground in Narita Airport.
We arrived at Hakodate Airport and picked up our car at the rental car counter at 1F. On the way to the Banso hotel, Connie was excited and kept saying, ‘Daddy, snow. Daddy, that!’ How adorable!
Local’s Secret Ramen
We quickly checked in at Banso and went to eat our first meal in Hakodate. We went to locals secret ramen shop–ABURI Ramen (ラーメン 炙 ABURI). I ordered soy sauce ramen (炙醤油ラーメン), my husband went with special miso ramen (炙特濃味噌ラーメン), and Dan chose Samurai ramen (武士ラーメン). The roasted pork is tender and delicious. The broth of Samurai ramen is quite thick and fishly. If you’re looking for miso ramen, I would recommend the special miso ramen.
Things to Do in Hakodate
We made a list of Things to Do in Hakodate and visited places depending on our mood.
After the good meals, we took a walk at Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse (金森赤レンガ倉庫). And Dan rented a baby stroller for free! All you need is to fill the form and show your passport at the reception. After Dan got some customised Japanese chopsticks for his wife, we drank Hakodate limited craft beers at Hakodate Brewery, Bay area. Dan and my husband enjoy the good beers and the unique beer name. I was the driver, couldn’t drink. However, I went to the brewery couple of times with my husband. I like the 社長のよく飲むビール (Shyachou No Yoku Nomu Bi-ru) . It’s an ale with 10% ABV, characterised rich and deep taste.
Then I drove through the famous slope–the Hachiman Zaka slope and made a short stop at the top of the hill so that Dan and Connie could take some lovely photos. Hachmanzaka slope is beautiful not only day but night. The lighting from the street post and the view of the harbour right in front and at the end road was serene. As Dan wasn’t interested in strolling around, we went straight to Mt. Hakodate.
I was thinking of driving a car to the top, but my husband told me that the road might close because of snow. Also, Connie was excited to take the ropeway.
We access Mt. Hakodate ropeway at nighttime, not much crowded. The panoramic view of Hakodate is impressive. Luckily, we wore our down jackets with the freezing temperature up at Mt. Hakodate.
Where We Stay in Hakodate
Back to our hotel (the Banso hotel), it provides Yukata (Japanese cotton kimono)in our room. The size suited for my husband and Dan, but too big for me, and Connie wore the kid size was just fine. Therefore, my husband asked reception for a smaller one. And they gave me new Yukata in about 5 minutes, excellent service!
The onsen (hot spring) was fantastic! Onsen, Japanese bath and saunas, socking in the hot spring with the snowy view, took me into a tranquillity peace. However, it may bit boring for kids, and Connie was getting bored after trying all the bath facilities.
Day 2: Hakodate through Lake Onuma and Lake Toya to Niseko
The hotel Banso provided a great breakfast buffet of Japanese and western food, such as sashimi, sushi, Katte Don, ramen, miso soups, fresh-baked bread, soups, fruits, etc. You can dress in Yukata and enjoy it.
Following route 338 (道道338号), we drove around Lake Onuma and took a short break at Onuma Quasi-National Park.
We stopped by Hakuchodai Sebatto (白鳥台セバッ) to see the picturesque view of whooper swans and ducks resting their wings on the icy lake. Hakuchodai Sebatto is a good place for birdwatching, the joy of observing swans, eagles, ducks, and smews.
Famous dessert at Lake Onuma
For sure, we won’t miss the famous Onuma mochi (Onuma Dango, 大沼のだんご). Nowadays, there’re two Onuma mochi shops, Numa No Ya (沼の家) and Taniguchi Sweet Dumpling Shop (谷口菓子舗). My granny in law said she always bought two packs from Numa No Ya when she was young and around. Therefore, we always visit Numa No Ya. Each package comes with two flavours, soy sauce and bean paste; or soy sauce and sesame. Granny told us there were sell Onuma mochi at Onuma train station. However, now you only can find Onuma mochi at the two shops.
Granny and I like the sesame taste, and Connie likes the bean paste. She wanted to get one for mom. Unforturnly the mochi was freshly made every day and expired on the same day.
Access:
Hakodate Limited Burger
Grab a couple of burgers from Lucky Pierrot Mori-Chō Akaigawa Shop as snacks on our long drive later. Lucky Pierrot only open in Hakodate, and their handmade burgers taste as well.
Locals Secret Ramen Shop
Had lunch at locals secret ramen shop–Drive in Mizushima (ドライブイン 水嶋), a lovely old couple runs it. The restaurant with vintage looks and old photos on the wall brought us back to the Showa Era. The food looks not fancy but tasty. High recommend Tanmen(たんめん, sticky noodle soup) and Kanikuriーmukorokke Teishoku (かにくりーむころっけ定食, creamy crab croquette set).
Access: Drive in Mizushima>>
Horse Riding at Lake Toya
We discovered Lake Toya by horse riding, such good fun. Riding horses on winter trails through the snowy Lake Toya, accompanied solely by peace and quiet, was a dream-like experience.
Lake Toya Ranch (レイクトーヤランチ) is the one and only horse trekking in Toya, the trails were covered in powdery snow rather than ice; the horses were well-conditioned for the weather and had the well-prepared gear for the trek. Besides, you can rent riding boots from them. The coach taught us how to move forward, stop, turn right and leave at the ranch. We head to the trail after practice. Through fluffy snowdrops on my face, horseback, and Lake Toya, the picturesque view of Whiteland, Lake Toya, and mountains unfold before me. We enjoyed the unique bond between humans, animals and nature, fantastic experience with Lake Toya Ranch. They provide such a good service, would highly recommend people to try.
- Horse Riding in Hokkaido>>
- Lake Toya Ranch Official Website (Japanese only)>>
- How to Access Lake Toya Ranch>>
Niseko Affordable Hotel
Tonight we stayed at Yumoto Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafutei (湯元ニセコプリンスホテル ひらふ亭). It’s near Niseko, and the price is budget-friendly. Consider we might remain outside for the whole next day, we weren’t very picky on the accommodation.
We booked a room for three adults and one kid. However, the child toiletries were missing, and Dan had to get them from reception. The good thing is the staff can speak some English. And the view was great at the outdoor onsen.
I’m aware they were swamped during the snow season. The food tasted like frozen food, don’t get your hopes up.
Day 3: Niseko to Otaru
It was skiing all day in our plan. We had a simple lunch at the vendor and checked out early because we would head to Otaru at night after skiing.
Ski Equipment
My husband and I got our ski equipment. We’re not professional skiers, but it’s always nice to have your own if you frequently use them. However, rent or buy was a difficult question for Dan, who first time skied. After he sorted it out, renting would be the better option in his case.
Compare Renting and Buying Ski Equipment>>
We took Dand and Connie to get their rental ski equipment at Amuse Sport. They rent complete equipment sets, including skis, helmets, ski boots, ski jackets, and ski pants. Their service was excellent, and the staff was friendly and found suitable sizes for you.
Lift Tickets
We decided to ski at Hirafu because Dan and Connie were skiing for the first time, and Hirafu was less crowded than Niseko, which is excellent for Dan and Connie to practice skills.
Connie was free to get in as she was only three years old. And we bought three adult tickets for 8 hours.
As Connie’s unprofessional coach, I taught Connie some basic knowledge before we hit the slope. And my husband carried on Dan.
- First Time Skiing Tips>>
- Or, you may get prepared before you leave home–Ski with Kids Survival Guide>>
It ended up proving I was a good teacher. Although my husband said ‘self proud doesn’t count.’ Lol
What We Eat at Niseko
We were planning to eat ramen, but endless lines changed our minds. We were exhausted and didn’t mention Connie was hungry and getting grumpy at the moment.
After my husband and his friend’s recommendation, I’ve taken a fancy to the Katsu Don from Seicomart. Therefore, I recommended it to Dan, and we bought the Katsu Don (Deep-Fried Pork Cutlet Bowl, カツ丼) from Seicomart. Moreover, never forget the Niseko craft beers!
Stay next to Otaru Canal
After my super care drove to Otaru, everyone got a good short nap in the car. Tonight we stay at Otaru Furukawa (運河の宿 おたるふる川), which recommended by our friend who lives in Otaru.
We were given our own parking space, which was helpful for our stay. The hotel is cosy, small, clean, and its amenities made us dive into Japanese culture. The Japanese style dinner was terrific, and the onsen was delightful. We were too tired to stroll around and see the Otaru Snow Light Path (小樽雪あかりの路). We enjoyed Otaru craft beers with nighttime illumination of the Otaru canal from the room.
Day 4: Otaru to Asahikawa and Biei
Our friend recommended the local’s favourite restaurant–Uomasa (魚真, うおまさ). It’s open from 12:00 PM, and we won’t be there by that time. Therefore, we had breakfast at the hotel. Nothing I could say, the meal was so good. The main shopping street is only a mere 10minute walk from the hotel, which was so convenient. We strolled around then headed to Asahikawa.
Asahiyama Zoo in Asahikawa
The most northern zoo in Japan–Asahiyama Zoo (旭山動物園), we pulled up to the zoo and parked, then began the trek to the ticket office. We only buy three adult tickets, and kids under 13 are FREE!
We started on the right side of the zoo. After watching the cute and funny penguins walk, we got to see the graceful seals catch fish, climb and dive in this dynamic display. Then headed to see polar bears roll in the snow to clean their fur. There is a spot you can observe the Polar bear land from the chilly water. However, we waited over one hour in line. Followed Asahiyama Zoo’s Map to stroll around. Overall, the zoo is clean, well maintained, and the staff are kind and helpful.
A kind and funny thing is a sign warning people to keep their distance from the hippo’s button. Hippos take feces powerfully.
Craft Beer and Jingisukan in Asahikawa
Taisetsu Beer House (大雪地ビール館) is only 25 minutes drive from Asahiyama Zoo. We tasted the Asahikawa craft beers with Hokkaido BBQ–Jingisukan (ジンギスカン, lamb BBQ). High recommend it, absolutely delicious!
Shirogane Blue Pond in Biei
Shirogane Blue Pond (白金青い池) froze and snowfall in the winter. It illuminated Shirogane Blue Pond with blue light.
Shirogane Blue Pond Official Website (Japanese Only)>>
Accommodation in Biei
Near to blue pond, Yumoto Shirogane Onsen Hotel (湯元白金温泉ホテル) is famous for its natural hot spring. The outside onsen overlooking the gorge is impressive. You can hear Shirahige Waterfalls (白ひげの滝) while soaking in the outdoor bath.
The downside is the staff couldn’t speak English. Luckily my husband could talk to them in Japanese.
Day 5: Biei to Sapporo and Jozankei
In the morning, we had a different daytime view of Shirogane Blue Pond, and it took us about 15-20 minutes by walk.
Aluminium that has seeped into the water scatters the sunlight, causing the pond to look blue. You can see the mirror-like lake surface with the crystal blue colour, different from the nighttime view.
Shiroi Koibito Park (白い恋人パーク)
It’s like Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory world, but the Japanese edition. Magic scenery both adults and kids have fun, keep eyes for surprise detail in every corner. Especially the most popular spot for kids–Gulliver Town POKKE, Connie couldn’t help herself.
Moreover, a mini playground, lots of fun toys and a few fun virtual games for kids charged ¥200 for 30 minutes for each kid and companion adult. It makes kids a remarkable memory.
Hokkaido-Jingu Shrine
Hokkaido-Jingu Shrine (北海道神宮) is glamorous and the snow added to the winter wonderland atmosphere. Most definitely worth a visit in the snowy winter.
Stay a Night at Jozankei
We visited Snow candle way (Jozankei Onsen Yukitouro, 定山渓神社雪灯路) on the way to the hotel. These lanterns made by snow light up all way to the Jozankei Shrine, and it is mystical, like all your wishes will come true.
Our neighbour recommended we stay at Jozankei View Hotel.
He took kids to Jozankei View Hotel every year. Children and adults can have impressive aquatic fun in an indoor heated pool at the Water Kingdom Lagoon. Also, you can enjoy the view of falling snow while soaking in the therapeutic water at the outdoor onsen.
A buffet at the restaurant with a vast dining hall offering food is tasty. Furthermore, you can have Hokkaido ramen or pub foods at After-Bath Cafe Gosentei.
Day 6: Sapporo Day Tour
We had too much fun last night that almost late to check out. Therefore, we just stuffed our stuff into suitcases without organising and left.
As it was a bit early to check-in at HOTEL RELIEF Sapporo Susukino, we parked our car nearby and took a train to have lunch.
Local’s Favourite Soup Curry
My husband’s best friend, who lives in Sapporo, recommended us Soup Curry King セントラル店. The soup was extremely flavourful and had a good amount of spices. Highly recommend it to everyone!
Stay at Central Sapporo
Check-in at Hotel Relief Sapporo Susukino (ホテルリリーフ札幌すすきの). The hotel is small but cheap and in a great location, easily accessible to the most popular places in Sapporo.
While Connie had a nap, we repacked our luggage. The room was small, so only can open a suitcase at one time. However, it didn’t bore us much.
Sapporo Odori Park
We Visited Sapporo Odori Park (大通り公園) not on the time of Sapporo Snow Festival (雪まつり) but still beautiful on its own and great to stroll around.
Sapporo Clock Tower
The Clock Tower, with a small museum inside, is of great value as a historic site of Sapporo Agricultural College. However, we walked through Sapporo Clock Tower (札幌時計台) at nighttime, the museum already closed. So we took some lovely photos with the illumination.
Sapporo Clock Tower Location>>
Sapporo Factory
Shop some excellent outdoor gear at Sapporo Factory (札幌ファクトリー), some with unique patterns made by Japanese designers.
Sapporo Factory Official Website>>
Sapporo Kaitakushi Beer brewery
Finally, we all could have some good craft beer today! Sapporo Kaitakushi Beer brewery is at the same place as Sapporo Factory but next building, easy access. But Connie got bored, and we drank a few Sapporo craft beers and grabbed some back to the hotel.
Day 7: Chitose Airport
To Start to last morning in Hokkaido for Dan and Connie, we had a long breakfast at the cafe in Hotel Relief. The pancake was soft and tasty, and the coffee was average.
After we returned the car at Chitose Airport, Dan shop some gifts at the airport, you can basically find most of the famous Hokkaido limited gifts and souvenirs here.
We said goodbye to Dan and Connie, reeled all the joyful memories in Hokkaido. I hope to see them soon somewhere or in Hokkaido again!
